Toulouse, called France’s pink city because of the rosy, glowing colours of its medieval brickwork – is a lively mixture of old and new. Renaissance mansions line the streets of the old town, where the campanile of the 12th century Basilique St-Sernin is an unmissable landmark, and graceful old bridges span the River Garonne. But Toulouse is also very much a 21st century city, as the capital of Europe’s aerospace industry and the home of Airbus Industrie. It’s a university town, so local life has a youthful edge. Toulouse is a gastronomic hub, and locals boasts that their take on cassoulet – a hearty casserole of beans, sausage, pork, and duck – is the finest that France has to offer, and is best enjoyed on a chilly autumn or winter’s day.
Main City Paris
Surface 811.6 km²
The people of Toulouse take their food seriously, and they are especially fond of the restaurants in the Marché Victor Hugo, where you can join them at Le Louchebem to sample the restaurant’s signature dish, La Gilbe, a platter of four different cuts of beef, for €50. Whet your appetite first with a stroll round this huge emporium, which is full of shops selling paté, seafood, cheese, charcuterie, and, of course, meat. The chevaline section is a reminder that the French eat horsemeat with gusto, and there are lots of regional specialities such as Toulouse sausage, cassoulet and confit de canard.
Hélene Vié’s unique boutique and fascinating mini-museum, La Maison de la Violette, is housed in a pretty vintage barge moored on the Canal du Midi. Her charming establishment is all about the city’s emblem, the Toulouse violet, which gives the city’s football team its nickname – Les Violets. It is said that Napoleon’s soldiers first brought the flower to the city, and it now lends its delicate scent, flavour and colour to sweets, cordials, liqueurs, cakes and teas, all of which you can sample and buy here. A box of crystallised violets is an easy-to-carry memento of your visit to Toulouse, and a bottle of violet liqueur makes an unusual gift.
The Centre de l’Affiche is in the heart of the formerly gritty industrial district St-Cyprien, on the opposite bank of the River Garonne from the well-trodden sightseeing trails in the old quarter of Toulouse. In this part of town, old warehouses and factories are being reclaimed as trendy housing and as edgy art and performance venues. The Centre de l’Affiche is dedicated to poster, postcard, packaging and label art, and its huge collection offers a fascinating glimpse of how commercial graphic design and branding has evolved over some two centuries. Pride of place goes to Toulouse Lautrec’s iconic poster of belle époque cabaret legend Aristide Bruant.