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Right at the tip of the rugged Breton peninsula, bite-sized Brest is the ideal destination if you want to get off the beaten track whilst absorbing a mega-dose of authentic French lifestyle. An important marine research centre and lively university town, Brest combines nautical jauntiness and savage natural beauty, with a certain avant garde trendiness (this pretty Brittany town was, after all, the backdrop for cult filmmaker Fassbinder’s 80’s art film Querelle). Add to that rugged, granite cliffs and isolated sandy coves; succulent seafood and traditional Celtic customs; charm-packed dining venues and a plethora of fun nightlife and you’re guaranteed that you won’t get bored in this upbeat Breton town.
Main City Paris
Surface 49.51 km
Density 2,870 /km²
A living legend for locals, this lively bar decorated with images of comic strip characters has just celebrated 22 years of existence. At the heart of the hip-and-happening quartier Saint Martin area, come to Le Comix to read comic books, listen to some of the region’s best live music, or sip on sumptuous cocktails like champagne and crème de cassis combination, Kir Royale, or local Brestoise speciality chouchen, a fermented, honey-based drink dating back to the middle ages.
Translating as ‘Grandma’s Garden’, this eco-conscious eatery and delicatessen shop that serves a mouth-watering range of Brestoise specialities created with locally sourced organic products. A savant mix of cosy and trendy – think checkerboard walls, modern art, warm colours and mood-lighting - Le Potager de Meme is a real local’s address. Order flavoursome végétarien clafouti, a colourful tart stuffed with caramelised vegetables and topped with tangy sheep’s cheese, then try the brine-fresh harengs (herrings) served on a bed of samphire. Top off your vitamin-packed meal with a fresh fruit salad marinated in an organic tea and pear coulis – and don’t forget to wash it down with one of his locally sourced beers or wines.
Far from the more touristy haunts of Brest’s old town, Quai Malbert’s port where the city’s old seadogs gather to watch the bustle of tatty vessels and gleaming yachts sail in-and-out, is an ideal spot to soak up the real atmosphere of this nautical town. Stroll down the quay to see the shipyards where boats have been built for centuries, catch a glimpse of white-sailed historical schooner La Recouvrance, then wander along to the Jardin de L’Academie de la Marine, a pine-studded park where you can get some great photos of the city’s port. Finish your stroll along this quay dedicated to French mariner Commandant Malbert, at Vinomania, a trendy wine bar where you can taste some of the best local tipples served with tangy goat’s cheese and olive nibbles.